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OregonShooter 1/2 point sling design (tutorial)

Posted: September 11, 2009 | Last Updated: September 11, 2009

My sling use on carbines went through the following progression.

Specter 3pt sling
Bungee single point sling
Adjustable 2pt VTAC sling

Each sling has its strong and weak points but of those three designs I found the VTAC to be the best compromise. Still, there is nothing like a dedicated single point sling for easy weapons manipulations so my solution was to...

...combine the single point with the VTAC creating the OS 1/2 point sling you see in the video below.

The reasoning behind the 1/2 point is that I can have a dedicated 1 point which is best if you know you are going into a fight but also the most versatile 2 point design using the VTAC adjustment method for the ability to live in the sling if need be and still be able to get it into action quickly in 2 point mode.

Other than moving the D-ring to the underside of the sling to prevent twisting while transitioning to the secondary weapon, the sling has not changed since the prototype video. I'm adding a few step by step images below and a parts list for those who might want to make one themselves. You will need a decent sewing machine to handle the heavy thread and drive the needle through 3 layers of strapping, but it can be done.

I searched very hard to see if there was a sling already being made to this design that I could buy but at the time of this writing there was nothing using the free running tail setup, all metal hardware, wide shoulder straps and 1pt or 2pt configurability.

The Emdom "Gunslinger" that Military Morons designed was pretty close to what I wanted with the nice wide shoulder strap, easy 1/2 pt configuration but without the VTAC slider design and it used plastic hardware which I decided was not going to be a part of my "ultimate" sling design.

Since I didn't plan on making them for profit and only for myself and friends, I chose the high end Cobra buckle system over the MagPull shackle setup which I did purchase and test out but found lacking.

Here is a breakdown of the parts costs as ordered from www.lowyusa.com:

(1) SN725 (steel/black): HK snap $2.15 each
(1) BK205 spring-loaded quick release, black. $1.70 each
(1) yard 2" Nylon webbing WBN6/200, black. $1.86 per yard.
(2) yard 1" Nylon webbing WBCOR/100, black. $3.60 per yard.
(1) Cobra buckle 1/2", black $32.00 each
(1) 1" D-ring, black, $.016 each

That's $41.47 in hardware alone to which you need to add your thread (TH69 is the largest a non-commercial machine can feed and what I used) to the price which can only be bought in 1lb spools. I think it cost about $20.00 for a cone of the TH69 which will last me for a lifetime of projects. You probably could sew it up with the heaviest poly thread you can find at the local fabric stores, YMMV.

Here are some comparison slings and their costs. When you take into account the complete package and HD hardware for less than a cheaper made factory sling, it becomes a worthwhile endeavor IMO.
SOE Gear Cobra Single Point $75.00 (simple 1pt, outrages price IMO)

EmdomUSA Gunslinger $37.95 (nice but plastic) - I am going to use their reduction method of Codura which looks nicer and will make sewing easier.

Magpul MS2 $49.95 (mostly metal, well made design but not comfy in 2pt or on long days I'm told because of 1" webbing.

Sewing

This is my first sewing project ever and there are a few things you need to know about your machine like how to increase the tension for the heavy material you are using, but for tactical gear most of the stitching is straight forward and the box-stitch is used heavily to secure ends such as this project requires. Luckily the stitch is very strong and easy to do as shown in the diagram below. If you look closely at my stitching (please don't! LOL) you will see I ran around the box twice on most stuff. Probably not needed as I've seen a lot of gear last with only one lap.

Cut Pieces

(1) 34" piece 1" webbing
(2) 6" pieces 1" webbing
(1) 31" piece of 2" webbing
(1) 10-20" piece (size according to gun attachment point) of 1" webbing

Order of Assembly

Orientate slider and H&K clip on 34" piece of 1" webbing, sew on H&K clip. (Make sure the clip is sewn in so that you clip into rifle's front the attachment point in a downward motion.)
Attach slider end to 2" webbing with 6" piece of 1" webbing.
Sew in Velcro cross and end tab for easier adjustment & grip of trailing end.
Sew the female side of the COBRA buckle to 2" webbing with other 6" piece of 1" webbing, making sure to place the D-ring is slid between the layers D-ring on the downside of the 1" webbing so it is underneath the sling in normal operation.
NOTE: The D-ring is shown on the WRONG side in this picture.
Sew tack bars as close as possible to prevent the D-ring from shifting.
Sew 10-20" piece onto the male side of the COBRA buckle using a box stitch then sew a 2" loop into the other end with a 1/2 twist in the loop.
Fold the surplus 2" sides over at the ends to create a taper down to 1" and tack in place.
Tack one of the 6"x3" pieces of 420 Denier (common pack cloth) to the under side of the sling.
Fold the Denier over on the top gluing (I used SuperGlue) in place and trimming excess until you have a cleanly folded presentation.
Create a "lid" of Denier to sew onto you glued Denier by folding over the edges of the Denier as you sew it on the top side of the sling using a box stitch through all the webbing and Denier. This will leave the bottom side with the slickest surface to move on your clothes.
NOTE: The D-ring is shown on the WRONG side in this picture also.